Giorno Undieci

Our last day in Umbri was spent in Montefalco.  Another beautiful hill town, this one relatively new, dating only from the Middle Ages. They are known for their (very expensive) linens.  In these towns the churches are as prevalent as Starbucks in Seattle.  Of course, now with the Italian population only 38% practicing Catholics, many of them are re-purposed as museums, libraries, etc.  The museum in this town had some incredible art and a wonderfully entertaining guide in English that was not proofread by an English speaker (again).  Some of the paintings were quite weird - one saint is depicted with arrows sticking out of him.  There is a Virgin Mary with an upraised stick, a child at her feet and a devil behind him.  Photos later.
Midday, I watched Italy vs Serbia in womens’ volley ball with our guide in a gelateria that also served food.  2 proseccos and a plate of sandwiches for 10 Euros!
Tonight we had an art show of the works that the painters had done.  There is some real talent here!  Some were every bit as good as the instructor’s and she charges hundreds of dollars for her works.
Dinner was bruschetta Caprese, garbanzo bean soup with portibello mushrooms, chicken breast in a wine sauce and a fennel and orange salad.  Dessert was something like apple strudel and vanilla ice cream.  Then it was back to the room to pack.  Leaving at 0800 tomorrow (actually today since I couldn’t get online to post this last night). Sad to leave this place, these people, but glad to be going home.  Arrivederci!

The famous black celery of Trevi

Street scene in Montefalco

The view from Montefalco

street in Montefalco

Another interesting translation. What is a  "sneaky heresy"?

Church interior Montefalco

St Jerome removing a thorn from a lion's paw

St Sebastian in his tighty whities

Removal of a demon

Interior of a church, now a museum Montefalco

Our Lady with a stick

Relics from the monks' wine cellar

Very old (1500s) fabric Montefalco

Here he is again - St Jon Snow

Vineyard Montefalco

Trevi from below

Cool motorcycle Trevi

Queen of the celery

Upside down
one of the artist's works

Georgia's painting of  Clitunno

Georgia's painting of a doorway in Montefalco

Another artist's work

Giorno Dieci

Best.  Day.  Ever.
Started this morning with a long walk through the countryside with Lieu.  Lunch at the hotel was panzinella salad, heaping platters of pizza (all different kinds) and tiramisu. The pizza was very close to what Dean makes.  We then got on the bus and drove up 2500’ though hairpin turns to Pettino, a remote mountain village.founded in 1496 by 7 families that bought the land from the church.  We were hosted by Francesca and her husband Mac - she a native of the village, he from New Zealand.  Her brothers were there as well.  After a welcome espresso, we hopped into their 4 wheel drive trucks and went truffle hunting with their dogs.  Alessandro, who owns the dogs, breeds together English Setters and Springer Spaniels.  He says the setters are fast and go a long way from him and the spaniels are slower and like to stay close.  He trains them by throwing tennis balls for them to retrieve, then switches over to throwing truffles.  Then they go out in the woods with the older dogs to learn how to sniff out truffles, dig them up and bring them back for treats.  So off we went in some of the most beautiful country - similar to the High Divide in ONP.  We (actually the dogs) found quite a few truffles.  We then went over to where their sheep herd was and they brought out prosecco and home made pecorino cheese while they cooked up fresh scrambled eggs and shaved the fresh truffles over them.  Did I mention it was a drop dead gorgeous day?  No one could stop smiling.  It was truly magical.  We then went back to the house and into the cheese cellar where they served us their own prosciutto that was literally melt in your mouth, along with bread with truffle spread and wine.  The wine was stored in 2 gallon plastic jugs under the table.  Francesca then proceeded to make pasta for 18 people from scratch.  Meanwhile the men were grilling pork chops over an open flame.  Dinner was in the kitchen where Francesca prepared the pasta with a truffle sauce followed by a second course of the pork chops, chinghale stew (again) and mashed potatoes and broccoli (mixed together).  Dessert was a type of brownie.  It was the most warm and wonderful meal.
Their cats and dogs were everywhere (they have 22 dogs).  There are large white dogs that are for guarding the sheep, similar to Pyrenees.  Alessandro said they are completely untrainable.  They never learn sit or stay, but boy can they guard sheep!
It was one of the best days of my life, to be with people who so love their work and the land they live on.  Nothing weird today.

Fountain in Trevi

View from our walk

Walking back in to Trevi

 Pizza for Lunch

In the high country

Alessandro, truffle hunter

Here they are

Beautiful country

Turffle dog

Getting a treat

Our haul for the day

Sheep

Sheep

Sheepdogs

Fixing scrambled eggs with shaved truffles

Their own cured proscuitto 

Francesca making pasta

Then shaking it out

Francesca in her kitchen

Fresh pasta with truffle sauce - the best

Georgia found a friend

Me with truffles

They smell divine

White cattle

Happy truffle dog

Giorno Nove

Today was Spoletto.  We started the morning with an escalator ride - at least 6 of them to get from the parking area to the town.  Another beautiful old town built by the Umbrians, added on to by the Romans, then the Longobards, then the Papal States, and on and on.  They have a beautiful Basilica there with a large courtyard, lots of art and soaring architecture.  Then we went into the town with a few nice shops and lots of arches and walls.  For lunch we ate from a food truck that sold porcchetta sandwiches for 3 Euros.  They were wonderful.  Later we had gelato at a place that had 6 different kinds of pistachio gelato (the pistachios were from different regions) as well as a dark chocolate, orange cinnamon one.  While Georgia painted, I went to the Archeological Museum.  Pretty much had the place to myself.  There was a Roman amphitheater that they use today during the Spolteto Festival (I would definitely bring a large soft cushion because those seats are hard!) There were lots of Roman and Umbrian artifacts from tombs in the area.  Some were remarkably intact.  Once again the weather was spectacular.
Dinner tonight was a show stopper.  Appetizer was pumpkin soup.  Then for the pasta course, they brought out a huge wheel of Parmigiana that had been hollowed out.  The waitere poured in Grappa and set it alight, stirred it some, then added cooked tubular pasta and stirred it some more to coat the pasta with the cheese.  Added some pancetta and voila!  Best mac and cheese ever.  The second course was the black celery again stuffed with sausage and served with a red sauce.  Dessert was a molten chocolate cake.  I am stuffed.
Weirdest thing of the day was a fresco in the museum of St. Agatha at the last supper holding a tray with her severed breasts on it.  This was to represent her martyrdom.. Uh, right.
Tomorrow the truffle hunt (with dogs)

Market in Trevi

View in Spoletto

View in Spoletto

View In Spoletto

Roman Bridge - Spoletto

Cathedral - Spoletto

Cathedral Spoletto

Cathedral Spoletto

Cathedral Spoletto

Floor Mosaics Cathedral Spoletto

Roman Arch - Spoletto

Roman Amphitheater Spoletto

Roman Amphitheater Spoletto 

Roman Sculpture Spoletto

Another interesting translation

Spoletto Museum

St Agatha and her severed breasts

Good Dog

Spoletto

Very Tired Kitty

Mauricio Makes Flaming the Parmesan 

The finished product