So I was very negligent at doing this blog, but in my defense, it wasn’t always easy to get on to Wi-Fi.
Day 5 we went to Braga. Another one hour bus ride from our river boat home, Another pretty Medieval town with an ornate church. Very beautiful tile work on the building facades. Great Super Bock beer at the sidewalk cafes. Wish we had room for more dessert. Spent the night back in Porto.
Day 6 in Guimaraes another 1 hour bus ride from Porto. Quirky ceramics of the nativity (one of the holy family on a Vespa). Found a sidewalk cafe with 20 kinds of gin and a dashing on the menu that read “I don’t know what time it is, but it is gin o’clock”.
Day 7. Off the bus and on to Lisbon. Stopped at a highway rest stop where they had the inevitable bachalhaul or salt cod. Yah, that’s my idea of highway snacks! There was a bus with it’s hood up, drying soccer jerseys. Then stopped for lunch at Obidos. A very charming small town more geared to tourists, booth foreign and local. I had clams and pork which sounds weird, but it works. They have a lovely liquor made with sour cherries they serve in a dark chocolate shot glass called Gina. Yum. The countryside is rolling hills, lush and green. The trees are mostly eucalyptus which were introduced in the 1700s. THey are over half of the trees in this area and burn like crazy during forest fires, but recover due to their deep roots at the expense of the oaks and pines.
Lisbon is a big city, again very hilly with interesting neighborhoods. We went on a “foodie” out of tapas restaurants in Miseracordia (the party part of town). One bar advertises free shots for your bra. We had the most delicious grilled chicken with a peanut butter, ginger and coconut oil sauce. Another place with a charcuterie plate and a third with sardines. Yes I tried them (they are as ubiquitous as the salt cod) and equally nasty,
Day 8 a bus tour of Lisbon to the Belem neighborhood on the river. Monuments to the navigators and sailors abound. Very upscale homes and the factory where they makes Natas - the famous custard tart with 12 egg yolks and a pound of sugar. Amazing fresh from the oven with a cappucino. In the afternoon we walked to a large plaza by the river, enjoyed more beer and charcuterie and just soaked up the sights. Dinner was at a meh seafood restaurant where I had shrimp with potatoes and egg. OK but not the best meal.
Day 9. We are staying at the Tivoli Hotel in the swanky part of town, Fantastic breakfast buffet, comparable to what we were having on the boat. What will I do without my morning smoked salmon? We took a cab to the Castle of St Jorge, but the line for tickets was too,one, so we walked around and enjoyed the view. There was a guy outside of a church playing an accordion with a chihuahua perched on his shoulder. Wished I had gotten a photo. Then to the flea market - lots of typical flea market junk and then to the food market. Beautiful fish and produce. The strawberries smelled like strawberries. Around the sides of the market, many Lisbon chefs have little windows and sell food to be eaten at the communal tables inside. Had wonderful tuna with a sweet sauce and mashed sweet potatoes and Dean had a pulled pork sandwich which he pronounced delicious. I walked home and did a little shopping.
Tonight we are off to a nice neighborhood seafood restaurant that has pickled lamprey and whole roasted lamprey on the menu. Um No.
Tomorrow an early trip to the airport, then home. will try to add photos ex post facto.
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