Giorno Tre

                                                     Essential Italian phrase

                                                     Georgia as Pinocchio

                                            Cute store with lots of kids stuff

                                           Street vendor with purses

                                                  Boboli Gardens

                                                Boboli Gardens

Steak Florentine

Yesterday afternoon, we went to the Boboli Gardens.  There were so many unexpected findings.  Sculptures all around which would have been the centerpiece of any museum exhibit in the US, and they were tucked away all over the place.  The views of Florence were stunning,  I am running out of superlatives..A must see.
Hit up 2 places for aperativos (hooked on those Aerol spritzers), then went to a restaurant Georgia had been to years ago, looking for the famous Florence bistecca.  We got there at 7 and they were completely booked for the night.  The host actually made a reservation for us at another restaurant.  The place is called Lungarno and the meal was perfect.  From the free prosecco to the steak, perfectly prepared, to the white bean and spinach sides.  The bread basket had an intriguing black bread made of squid ink.  I got to meet the chef.
Back to the hotel for an after dinner Negroni (in retrospect, did not need) and met 2 sisters who were traveling from Ohio.  Fun conversation.
This morning went out for a Tuscan breakfast of meat and cheese and cappuccino.  While we were at the restaurant, there was a noisy student demonstration outside.  Our waiter feigned ignorance but I did see a hammer and sickle flag..
My favorite view of Italians so far was a young woman riding a bicycle with ear buds in, talking on her cell phone and gesturing with one hand.
We met up with the art group at noon and are on the bus to Umbria.  It looks like Eastern Washington - rolling hills, vineyards, few trees.

Giorno Due - Firenze

Last night’s dinner was incredible.  Trattoria Sostanza is a tiny hole in the wall down a nondescript street.  The food!!!!! We started with the Tuscan crostini slathered in pate.  Then split the artichoke tart and butter chicken (and spinach, we had to get our greens).  The tart was like a custard and so delicious.  The chicken indescribable.  For dessert, the meringue cake with mixed berries.  Washed down with the house Chianti. We shared a table with a couple from Houston who have rented an apartment here for 2 weeks.   Thanks to Kara Urnes for the suggestion.
This morning it was Shop Til You Drop Heisterkamp.  She scored big at a purse store and jewelers as well as a clothing store.  Last night I bought 2 pair of pants that I don’t have to shorten!  I love shopping in Italy.  I am not abnormally short here.

Also enjoy the late afternoon aperativo.  Yesterday it was Aperol spritzers.  Yum.

                                                   Aperol Spritzers

                                         Gelato

                                          Artichoke tart

                                                      The chef at Trattoria Sostanza

The Duomo

Georgia and Carleens’ Umbrian Adventure

L’inizio (The Beginning)

We left Seattle in a cool drizzle, boarding a 9 hour Lufthansa flight to Frankfort.  We had great seats along the side with extra leg room (ha ha, like I need that!).  The food was so so, but we were able to have Campari and soda.  Watched Ocean’s 8 (very clever) and Neat, A history of Bourbon (very educational).  Read a little, slept a little and studied Italian.
The Frankfort Airport was just as described.  The planes park out on the tarmac about 1 mile from the terminal.  Then they sardine you into busses.  So much for German efficiency!  The airport was not so bad once you got there.  We then boarded a smaller plane to Florence.  It is warm and sunny here - like summer.  The hotel is lovely and the city is bustling.  We are headed out to explore.

View from the plane window over Greenland

NYC the end

So, Thursday morning I booked a tour through Urban Adventures on Tastes and Tenament of the Lower East Side.  It was amazing.  Brian our guide is a part time actor and was so enthusiastic about his subject.   He obviously loves NYC and it's history.  We started at City Hall and had caramel waffle cookies (Dutch) and learned about the first settlers of Manhattan.  Then we walked (in the pouring rain)past the African burial ground to Chinatown>. There we had the most amazing pot stickers in a little hole in the wall (they would have been 6 for $1.25 if we had paid for them).  Then to an Asian jerky place.  Then to Little Italy for fresh mozzarella and prosciutto,  Across the street was the Ferrara store with torrones and baked good.  I got some cannolis.  Then to the Jewish section to a knish shop where we noshed on knishes.  Our final stop was at a German beer hall for pretzels.  A bit of carb loading, but wonderful.  All the while, the guide told us about the history of the places and people.  We then went to a candy store which had every kind imaginable and the Essex Market.  We then went back to the "neighborhood" for drinks. That night was the Carnegie performance,  There are so many kids in the PAHS orchestra they had to split them in two.  The older kids did an Ave Maria that was amazing.  Afterwards we went for coal fired pizza with Chet and Louise,
Friday we decided to go to Bensonhurst (the real Little Italy).  We took the train to Coney Island which we saw from the train windows.  It wasn't open, so we didn't get out.  I had found a walking tour of Little Italy on line which was a total bust.  We eventually made our way to a hoagie shop in the neighborhood that was fantastic.  The bread was from a brick oven bakery in Brooklyn and was perfect.  We ordered too much food, but did get to try the Sicilian rice balls, my new favorite food.
Got back in time to go out to dinner with Ron and Debbie at Sarid's.  A fun place with caricatures of all the famous of NYC,
Today, Lucas and I went to the upper east side to find black and white cookies and had an egg cream. Then we all went to MOMA (not as good as the Guggenheim in my opinion) and to db Bistro Moderne for brunch.  We had coq au vin and Alsatian tart flambe,  All wonderful.  Wee went to the NYC Library and Grand Central Station.  I am posting this from JFK.  The trip is done,  Aside from the weather, it was great.  So wonderful to be with Lucas as well.

NYC continued

Yesterday started at Chelsea Market.  There are numerous food vendors (mostly bakeries) but very little seating if your party of 7 wants to purchase foods from different restaurants.  I had a piece of Sicilian pizza with prosciutto and arugula.  The crust is a little thicker than Neopolitian.  We then walked the High Line, a 1.4 mile walk 20' above the street level on an old elevated train track. I think it would have been prettier later in the year when things are blooming.  Then to the Guggenheim which was a real WOW.  The Frank Lloyd Wright designed building is perfect for viewing the modern art.
In the afternoon we took the train out to Flushing to the "best dim sum restaurant in NYC".  Eh.  Maybe because we got there at 4 PM.  There were no dim sum carts, just a selection of about 8 on the menu, all pretty pedestrian, although delicious.  The service was terrible.  We were essentially ignored.  The rest of the menu was extensive so we supplemented the dim sum with soup and stir fry which were quite good.  Then it was a short walk to Citi Stadium for a Mets game.  It was fun to go to a different ball park.  They have steak sandwiches, hot pastrami and Jim Beam cocktails.  Sadly, it was so cold that we only lasted 6 innings.  We must have been in the Jewish section as most of the men were wearing yarmulkes.. Bartolo Colon pitched - at age 43.  He had played for the Mets for years but now plays for Atlanta.
Today, a food tour.  Tonight Carnegie Hall.

NYC

I realized I had better blog this trip or I would never remember all the fabulous restaurants and sights we have been to.  This trip is Ron Jones's last as the Port Angeles High School Orchestra contductor at Carnegie Hall.  He has taken our local kids here every 4 years since the 1980s.  We are here in part to celebrate this as well as to have some fun in the Big Apple.  We haven't been here since Lucas and Matt were on stage at Carnegie in 2005.  Luckily, Lucas has joined us on this trip too.
We got into JFK on Sunday afternoon.  I came from Seattle and Sean from Ft.. Lauderdale where he was visiting his brother.  We took Lyft from the airport to the hotel which took about 2 hours as the traffic was so awful.  We are at the Park Central Hotel, a block from Carnegie Hall and another 2 blocks from Central Park.  We went to Gramercy Tavern for dinner with the Joneses and Barb Maines and her husband Jeff.  No gingerbread, but a fantastic sea bass with lobster sauce.  Dean had fried rice with bork belly.  The waiter was from Seattle and had worked at a number of Tom Douglas restaurants there.
Monday, we walked to Artie's on Broadway Deli.  Dean had a pastrami omlette and I had an egg sandwich.  Then walked across Central Park to the Met and spent hours being overwhelmed by the sheer size and variety of exhibits.  Then we went to Macy's to see their Flower Show (meh) and wandered around midtown.  We stumbled upon db Bistro Moderne in mid afternoon.  It is a Daniel Boulud restaurant.  I had an Old Cuban drink:  rum, basil, lemon and prosecco.  Yummy!  
Then to the Village to Motorino for Neapolitan wood fired pizza at the recommendation of Kevin Tracy.  We had the sopressata pizza.  I easily polished off 1/2 of an 18" pie and could have eaten the whole thing.  Spent the night watching the travesty of the NCAA basketball championship in our hotel room.
Lucas came in Tuesday morning and we headed downtown to the 2nd Avenue Deli.  Best matzoh ball soup and pastrami sandwiches.  The proprietor did Jewish standup comedy.  Our meal was topped off with a complimentary shot chocolate soda.
We then headed down to Ground Zero - the pools are so moving.  The names of the victims are engraved all around the perimeter, including one woman and her unborn child.  It made me sad and angry.  What gave those creeps the right to take all those lives.  I couldn't go into the museum as it would only have made me sadder and madder.  We went to Eataly, an acre of Italian market which is like DeLaurenti's on steroids,
We then walked across the Brooklyn Bridge - truly awesome.  Sadly the weather was so crappy, so we basically got back on the subway and came back to Manhattan.
Last night went to Ron and Debbie's favorite Italian restaurant Montbello.  We went with Chet and Louise, friends of Ron's.  He was the band director in PA when Ron came to town.  He then went to med school and is some kind of medical administrator type.  Great conversations.
Today it's off to the High LIne

Athens, Greece

Sitting in Athens Airport for several hours but at least they have good Wifi.  Was able to catch up on the Seahawks game from yesterday.  This being 10 hours off our time zone is weird.  The Greek pizza yesterday was like a Greek salad on a crust, OK, but not great.  Then I hit my last gelato stand for "dark black" a dark chocolate one.  Now it's time to eat healthy.  I did polish off the cheese pie from Patmos (a lovely cheesy bread baked in a crust)  which is their local specialty.
Last night had a great dinner with our new friends from Loveland Colorado and good byes to the "girls next door" to our stateroom from Napa California.
Overall, it was a great trip.  The itinerary was fantastic. Not sure I would recommend Oceania cruise lines. The clientele are really old and somewhat grumpy, although we did meet some really nice people one on one at dinner.  Most of the food was very good.  Their shore excursions were stupidly expensive, but with the  Internet, we were able to book our own without difficulty for 1/3 to 1/2 the price.  Many days, we would go into town, find a place with free WiFi and have some local snacks and beverages, then get our and explore the town.
I will work this weekend on transferring photos from my camera and cell phone into the blog.  Until then......